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This new volume is the complementary twin of the guide Orco: The 100 Most Beautiful Cracks, published by the same publisher in 2020 (author Paolo Seimandi), which focused on traditional crack climbing. The new guide, instead, is aimed at sport climbers and includes all the crags in the Valle dell’Orco and the Val Grande di Lanzo. Like the previous book, it features many color photos and hand-drawn topos, along with detailed information and both general and specific approaches illustrated with aerial images.
The guide is authored by Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti, with all drawings by the latter.
Why a book dedicated solely to sport climbing in a valley like the Valle dell’Orco, which is mostly known for its trad climbing? And more importantly, why combine two nearby valleys using a rather unconventional criterion for a climbing guidebook?
The climbing world is increasingly leaning toward specialization. As a result, 600-page volumes that include everything from bouldering to alpine routes no longer reflect the interests of the majority of guidebook buyers. Despite this clear shift in mindset, most guidebooks still follow a monographic structure and end up becoming (unsurprisingly) more like encyclopedias, where climbers often get lost, unsure of what to choose. Pietra di Luna has long taken a different approach—dedicating individual volumes specifically to trad climbing, multipitches routes, or sport climbing. This allows for more user-friendly and affordable guidebooks, with more space dedicated to each area without having to squeeze everything into a single publication.
The Valle dell’Orco, now known worldwide, shares many characteristics with the nearby Val Grande di Lanzo, located just to the south. Although not as famous as the Valle dell’Orco, we believe Val Grande deserves much more attention. This is what led to the decision to combine both valleys into a single volume.
Although these valleys are best known for their trad climbing, sport climbing has developed alongside it over the past 40 years. In fact, in recent years it has seen a revival, with the development of stunning hard routes as well as smaller, popular alpine crags. One of the more recent trends has been the creation of sectors dedicated exclusively to slab climbing—perhaps the perfect complement to crack climbing, and a discipline with a growing number of fans. This guide shines a spotlight on this slightly hidden aspect of climbing in these valleys.
It’s sure to attract the interest of granite lovers, curious newcomers, those looking to escape the summer heat, and those seeking an alternative to cracks and trad climbing.
ORCO – Sport Climbing in Valle dell’Orco and Val Grande di Lanzo
By Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti – July 15, 2025
Two separate editions: Italian and English
212 color pages, two-color hand-drawn topos by Eugenio Pinotti
Photographs by various authors
Translation by Laura and Elena Oviglia
Weight:
340 g
Author:
Eugenio Pinotti, Maurizio Oviglia
Publisher:
Series:
Product Type:
Books
Language:
English
EAN:
9791298534162
Pages:
212
hoehe_mm:
180
breite_mm:
125
Year of publication:
2025
Continent: Europe
Country: Italy
State / Province: Piedmont
Region: Grajische Alpen
Places / Mountains / Lakes: Valle dell'Orco, Ceresole Reale, Val Grande (Lanzo-Täler), Noasca, Groscavallo, Locana, Pont Canavese, Cantoira, Lanzo Torinese
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